A Local’s Guide to Visiting Seattle
The ultimate hidden gems, off-the-beaten path delights, and the must-see
Ah, the Emerald City. Seattle is incredibly underrated, but every time we host friends and family, the magic of this place becomes immediately evident. It’s hard to visit this quirky little city hugged by water and mountains and not fall irretrievably in love.
Seattle isn’t a big town, so you can see a lot of it in a few days. If you only have a long weekend, I recommend grouping your neighborhoods so you’re generally in Pike Place/Downtown/Space Needle area; Capitol Hill/Lake Union; and University District/Fremont/Ballard.
Getting There
It’s an easy walk to the Link train platform at SEATAC airport (which will take you through several good areas to stay); take it towards Northgate to get into the city proper. It’s slow — about an hour from the airport to Capitol Hill — but cheap. You can also catch a taxi or ride share (Lyft and Uber) from the third floor of the airport, usually running about $50–70 and 20–30min to Capitol Hill area. Queen Anne, Ballard and Fremont aren’t directly connected by train yet.
Where to Stay
CapHill: For walking distance to trendy restaurants, hip bars, music & events and nightlife in the heart of gay Seattle. Ballard: Once a working-class hood, it’s now a trendy and unpretentious spot, with charming, trendy vintage shops and breweries. Fremont: The self-proclaimed Center of the Universe, Fremont is a eccentric, artsy neighborhood shaped by hippie love. Naked bike rides and rummage markets abound.
Other good options: The University District is crawling with young folk and cheap dining options, Belltown is smack dab in the city with galleries and bars, and sleepy Queen Anne, with its hills and Victorian houses, puts you close to major tourist attractions. Visit techie-South Lake Union but don’t bother staying there.
Where to avoid: 3rd Avenue runs through downtown Seattle and is a problem area for assaults and crime between Union and Pike, as is the area of 12th Ave and Jackson. Avoid walking around James and Yesler near Pioneer Square (though Pioneer Square itself is worth a visit!). Staying on Aurora Ave. North is also not something you want to do, as sex work is prominent down the boulevard.
What to Do
Get in nature — Don’t come all the way to Seattle and NOT spend time outside! If you’re renting a car, hit up Snoqualmie Falls, Deception Pass or if you have a full day, Mt. Rainier (in high months you need a reservation). For the car-less, you can easily find wilderness in the city at sprawling Discovery Park — Seattle’s answer to Central Park — with a lighthouse that hugs the water. Seward Park, once an island until the water level changed, is also great for a walk view Rainier views. Also checkout Seattle Metro’s Trailhead Direct, a seasonal service for the car-free which takes you from light rail stops to hiking trails.
Underground Tour - This is always a crowd pleaser! Seattle is actually built on top of original Seattle, and with witty and wise tour guides, you get to go down to the old timey streets and storefronts of yesteryear that run underneath Pioneer Square. Learn about how Seattle was transformed by visionary sex workers, and the many I-can’t-believe-they-did-that historical follies. The tour and route changes, so it’s always fun to do more than once.
Pike Place — an icon for a reason. Check out the fish throwing and local produce at this historic farmers market, Ghost Alley coffee near the gum-wall, and be sure to have a little bite to eat everywhere. Don’t miss the shops at the basement level, and walking down to the waterfront. (Psst, it’s Pike Place, not Pike’s place. You’re welcome.)
Gasworks Park — a great view of the city skyline from a giant grassy hill. The perfect spot to watch seaplanes coming in and out, weaving between boats. Crowning the hill is a decommissioned gas refinery, which is now a quite striking relic as urban art. You’re very close to Fremont Brewing, too, and the Fremont Troll, who you must say hello to.
Water taxi to West Seattle - Unpopular opinion, unless you have lots of time, skip the oft-recommended ferry to Bainbridge; instead take the cheap, 10 min water taxi near Pike Place over to West Seattle to soak in city views from the water. While there, stop by for tasty Hawiian-Korean food at Marination with a patio with a view, then lyft over to Alki beach for strolling and people watching. If the weather’s gross, head to Alaska St. and California (Alaska Junction) for shopping.
Get on a Boat — Float around Lake Union inside your own hot tub (really), or rent easy to manage electric boats and bring your own music, wine and snacks for Space Needle views on the water. You can also do cheap kayak rentals on Lake Union, or see it from inside a free rowboat, which can be rented at the Center for Wooden Boats, and peep the iconic house boats, including the Sleepless in Seattle. Argosy Tours, which see the Puget Sound and Lake Union, are also a popular (albeit a bit touristy) option.
Hop in a lake — Okay, maybe only do this in the summer, but highly reco swimming in Lake Washington, esp at beaches in Seward Park, Madison Park Beach, Golden Gardens, or Magnuson Beach (Lake Union isn’t swim friendly). Bring some beers and floaties and you’ll peep Mount Rainier and seaplanes while splashing about in gentle water. Not sold? You can also check out being in a sauna floating on a lake, which kinda counts?
Seaplane — Confession, I haven’t done it yet, but epic views of the city and Puget Sound from an iconic seaplane is on the bucket list. They take off from Lake Union, which is also an active runway, starting at $169/pp.
Fish and forage like the locals— If you’re here in the summer, spending a day on the water crabbing or salmon fishing is peak PNW, as is picking blackberries that grow EVERYWHERE (Magnuson Park is my spot). In the winter, you can join tours for oyster and clamming or geoducking. Fall and spring is a great time to join a mushroom foraging tour. Or check out our many farmer’s markets, if you want to enjoy the bounty without the work.
The Trio — The Space Needle is def worth the trip to the top, and the Chihuly gardens and glass and Museum of Pop Culture (MoPop) are great ways to spend rainier days. They’re all next to each other, but no sweat if you just want to pick your favorite (if I had to pick I’d say Space Needle), or skip them all. Each one takes ~hour.
Ballard Locks and Salmon Ladder- Check out the canal and watch boats go up and down in the locks, then mosey over to see the salmon ladder where dare-devil fish frantically pass through in July-Nov (best in August), complete with underground viewing area. Great stop on your way from downtown Ballard to Discovery Park. Heron and seal can be seen, too.
Live music —Seattle has a storied music scene, and you can catch some burgeoning talent at one of our many spots like Mama Lou’s/The Crocodile (Belltown), Neumos & Chop Suey (Cap Hill), Fremont Abbey, The Sunset and Tractor Tavern (Ballard).
Where to Drink
For cocktail snobs: Canon — Instagram-worthy cocktails from America’s largest spirit collection in probably America’s tiniest room. Bathtub Gin & Co. is a historic treat, and Rob Roy is a local favorite especially around the holidays when it gets Christmas balls to the walls festive. The bar at The George in the Fairmont Olympic is also a glam, Instagram-worthy spot.
For a fun night out: You can’t go wrong with bocce ball and killer German food at Bavarian hideaway Rhein Haus, a PNW non-tiki-tiki-speakeasy that stuns at Inside Passage (def get reservations), or indoor golf and games at Flagstick Pub.
Wine & beer: There are SO many craft breweries here, many of which you can crawl to in Ballard. My favorite is Fremont Brewing which brags a fabulous outdoor patio, and South Lake Union’s Tapster tasting room gives you the chance to self-pour a wide-range of local beers. CapHill’s Rapport wine bar does the same for a local and internal wines and was a spot on Love is Blind, fun fact.
Where to Eat
Breakfast — the International District’s Hood Famous Cafe for incredible congee and more, Westman’s Bagels for delicious bagels at a bare-bones walk-up, Analog Coffee’s twist on a breakfast sandwich you’ll dream of for years, and Seawolf Bakery for Seattle’s it’s-the-bread-in-every-good-restaurant-bakery. We also bring the biscuit game out here, with the Seattle Biscuit Company, Morsel, and Biscuit Bitch (in order of best). If you can snag a reservation, Tilikum Place Cafe by the Needle for brunch or Harry’s Fine Foods (also great for dinner; their chocolate cake is top tier).
Lunch - Pasta Casalinga fresh, handmade pasta in Pike Market, divey Sisters & Brothers fried chicken sandwiches, Pel Meni Dumpling Tzar for Russian Dumplings every one of my visiting friends rave about. Get some seafood at Taylor Shellfish and Oyster bar, Chinooks, or Pike Place Chowder. And of course, Dick’s for Seattle’s local burger chain.
Dinner - Rondo for Japanese, Laotian rising star Taurus Ox, Neu for no-fuss rotating international fare, The Pink Door in the Market if you’re fancy and Bateau for bougie steak, and my fave dim sum at Harbor City. If you need some Seattle seafood (you do), check out Dukes, or Ivar’s Acre of Clams, or The Walrus & the Carpenter for oysters so good, non-eaters become fans.
Snack - Japanese snacks and street food at Tamari Bar, local ice cream Molly Moon’s, Piroshky-Piroshky in the Market (salmon pâté for the win), Hello Robin for fresh baked cookies. Up late? Grab a Seattle Dog (hot dog with cream cheese and sautéed onions) at corner pop-ups, like at the corner of 11th/Pine.
Coffee - Local spots include my favorite Espresso Vivace in Capitol Hill (try the cinnamon and orange zested cafe Nico), book store slash coffee stop Fuel Coffee, Caffe Ladro, Victrola Coffee, Seattle Coffeeworks…the list goes on. You can’t go wrong. Try them all. The impressive Starbucks Reserve is also in CapHill, so if you must pay Starbucks homage in Seattle, it’s the place to go over that ‘first’ one.
Where to Shop
Elliot Bay Books the pride and joy of bookworm Seattle
Bogey Boys Seattle’s prodigal son Macklemore opened this bespoke golf (and pickleball) clothing store. Not for sale? Your grandad’s clothes.
8th Generation The Snoqualmie Tribe partners with Native artists to bring unique art, textiles and more that is “Native designed, not native inspired.”
Pike St. Press for one of a kind, local prints and shirts
Fremont Vintage Mall, Lifelong Thrift Store — Seattle has a HUGE thrifting scene, pop into one to shop like the locals. Mort’s Cabin is only open on Saturday’s, but it’s worth it; this small store is jam-packed with one of a kind vintage decor, folksy art and more
Flora & Henri the woman-owned Pioneer Square concept store is a feast for the eyes with its artful curation of luxe goods and clothes
Good&well Supply Co. The National Park inspired candles shop has their flagship shop in Ballard
Local Quirks
It’s true — we don’t use umbrellas when it’s raining, unless it’s a storm of epic proportions (and if it’s snowing, no one is going anywhere). Most of the time it’s a very light rain and just really (really) overcast, so try wearing a waterproof jacket. Layers are your friend. You’ll be okay, promise.
Seattle is a walking town — and very hilly. Parking can be kind of a pain, so it’s not uncommon to trek about or to bike. Bring those comfy shoes and prepare to get rock hard calves as a souvenir. Also, we love our furry friends, prepare to see dogs everywhere.
You can park either direction on the street, so don’t freak out if you see cars parked facing the ‘wrong way.’
