Greece Itinerary: A Romantic Week in Paros - 2023
How couples can spend one, two or five days on this Greek Island
Hey! I’m Jess, and for more than a decade I’ve worked in advertising making commercials for brands like MGM Hotels and Casinos, Southwest Airlines and Expedia. Which, as you can probably (ad)venture a guess, means I love to travel.
This Paros itinerary is for you if you like what I do in a vacation: not-overly-touristy or clubby, affordable activities and a few memorable moments of splurge, really good eating, and taking in the local culture at a leisurely pace. I also love a plan where the key details (i.e., how do I get there?) are sorted out, but leaves from for discovery.
If this sounds like you, then you are in the right place.
I had the pleasure of spending a little over a week on the blue jewel of the Cycladic islands, Paros, in April-May 2023— a second visit there for my husband and I. I’ve put together an audit of Paros, Greece activities, the best beaches in Paros, the best restaurants in Paros, and generally a complete guide to the Greek island for a fabulous couples romantic getaway or honeymoon. If you’re island hopping you can do the highlights (Parikia and Naoussa) in one or two days, or if you have more time, all five days.
Getting there: Athens > Ferry to Paros
Unless you’re island hopping or paid a mint to fly directly into Paros’ small airport, it’s likely you’ll be starting your journey at the Athens International Airport (Eleftherios Venizelos). If not, skip down to Day One.
If you’re traveling light, go directly to the ferry terminal (Port Piraeus) from the airport via subway for only 10euro (journey: easy, ~hour and a half). Alternately, you can easily grab a taxi which runs about 50–70 euro (more at night, and often extra per bag). With unpredictable traffic, it tends to take as long as the metro.
I like to leave cushion and spend the day adjusting in Athens with the first ferry out the next day (I recommend Athens4 Hotel, they even pack you a goodie bag of breakfast for early AM ferries); but if you can’t wait to get to your island, check the ferry schedule and leave some room for flight or transport delays; in high season (June-Sept) you’ll have many carriers and options per day, in low, just a handful. The ride will take about 4 hours and there are TVs, luggage storage, power outlets (bring your adapter!) and cafeterias.
If you’re visiting from a neighboring island, you can catch a direct ferry to Paros from most islands, taking about an hour from Santorini and 35min from Mykonos.
You can either book a ticket on sites like Ferryscanner or direct with operates like Blue Star Ferries, or, go buy a physical ticket near the port. With mobile tickets on Blue Star, I definitely prefer the former.
You do not need to pay extra for a seat reservation, get on early and find a cozy spot in the open seating areas in the front or back of the boat, or enjoy the breeze outside.
Where to Stay:
There are two main areas to stay, near the glittering port and old town in Parikia, or in the charming harbor of Naoussa. Paros is best explored with a car rental (you can cheaply rent from Avis walking distance from the port, and driving on the island isn’t very daunting), but it can be done without a one. The bus and taxis are available in high season near the port. The small island is not one for app driving (but do check out Greece’s Lyft/Uber alt, FreeNow, for Athens).
If you don’t have a car or don’t mind taking the bus, want something a bit more lowkey, or plan to take the ferry often for day trips, staying in Parikia is your bet. If you want to camp out near great amenities, shopping, and more upscale hotels and restaurants, or have a car, go Naousa.
Day One: Paros Port discovery
Start your visit in Paros in the port hub
- Breakfast/coffee and views at Cafe Symposium — a 5min walk in-land from port, the charming location with blue and white streets and a flower crowned cafe is great for people watching, coffee and breakfast, and they take credit cards. There are some stairs an uneven pavement if you have mobility or pram concerns
- Shop old town, peep the castle — From the cafe wander through the winding streets and visit shops for handmade leather sandals, olive wood bowls and beautiful jewelry at Labirides. I also recommend getting local olive oil and Greek oregano, which is slightly minty and less sharp than the kind you might be accustomed to. You can easily meander to take in the views of (and from) the island’s delightfully hodge podge Frankish Castle
- Go for a dip — You’ll pop back out on the main street where you can visit a bodega for some picnic fare, or, take a quick lunch at Brizoladiko Steakhouse for amazing gyros (honestly, so good). Then take a swim at one of two solid beaches on this side of the island, Livadia Beach or Krios. Livadia runs from the port on and is easily accessible by foot, with calm waters, mostly sandy shores, and sun chairs that can be rented. Krios can be walked to following an additional 20 min coastal trail that starts at the ‘end’ of Livadia, or with an 8 or 10 euro boat ride from the port. It’s also a bit more scenic in my opinion and can be less crowded. If you only have a day, skip these beaches and hop down to Naoussa.
- Dinner along the water at Opus or Taverna Alexandros — Freshen up at your hotel and head back to the port for drinks and a sunset dinner (which starts around 8 in Greece) at Opus. It’s an intimate, authentic spot with great views of the windmill and water, and the food is simple but incredible. Alexandros is a bit more trafficked, towards the end of the port, but the menu is larger, the food is delicious, and it also boasts views of the water.
- If the calendar lines up head off to Cine Rex for an open-air movie in cozy chairs (showings here). They’ve been around since the 1960s and have wine and other refreshments, and movies are generally in English with Greek subtitles or vise versa. If they aren’t running, Paros Park Amphitheater also has evening events worth checking out.
Day Two: Treat Yourself in Naoussa
Harbor some feelings for a little luxuriating?
- Kolymbithres (Kolympethres) beach— clear, shallow turquoise water is hugged by unique rock formations on this small but mighty beach with views of Naousa across the way. Get there early for a good spot. 15min drive from the port, or cheap and easy water taxi from Naoussa; if you’re going by bus from the port, nearby Piperi beach might be easier to get to (check timetables). Alternately, check out the clothing optional nudist/beach Lageri popular with gay travelers not much further out. The harbor is a great place to catch a catamaran or sailing excursion tour, though you can also find ones leaving from the port at Piso Livadi.
- Wander Naoussa, lunch at Mario — visit the town of Naosusa and peruse boho trendy boutiques, and stop for a frappé (do not leave Greece without having several). Walk your way to the old fishing village’s stone walls and Venetian castle crumbling into the sea. You can take in this view from famed Mario’s restaurant, with delicious grilled octopus and friendly (e.g., begging) cats roaming along the harbor.
- Wine tasting at Moriatis — now that your stomach is cushioned for booze, sample Greek wine at historic family run Moriatis winery. Be sure to visit the vineyard itself and not the wine shop in Naoussa harbor. Tucked on the hilltop, they give tours and tastings of wine grown from family vineyards around the island, including their own, which you can amble (teeter?) through. The wine and cheese pairing is especially fun as you get to taste cheese only found in this part of the world. Open Monday — Saturday: 11:00–7:00PM. A 15 min, hilly and not well-marked walk from the harbor or 4min drive to Epar.Od. Naoussas-Marpissas, Naousa 844 01, Greece.
- Elios spa and cocktails in Parilio — if you need a moment of bougie, head back down from Moriatis towards Naoussa and make your way to the Parilio Hotel, where you can get a delicious cocktail at the Architectural Digest featured pool and bar. Downstairs you can get a relaxing massage and facial in one of the hotel’s tranquil spa rooms (recommend you book in advance via email). The staff is a little….all over the place, but it’s nice for a visit. Kolympithres, Naoussa Paros 84401, Greece.
- Siparos dinner — snag a reservation as soon as you can for dinner near the window at Siparos for an incredible fine dining meal with impeccable service, local cuisine and stunning ocean views. If they’re booked up, check out Rada nearby.
Day Three: Aliki Beach & Taste of Culture
Soak up the sun and eat up the everything
- Piso Aliki — shallow waters abound at this expansive beach. There is ample public parking, a few trees to hide under and a spartan shower and bathroom, but no service aside. Luckily the boardwalk and restaurants are a short walk along the water. You can also reach Aliki by bus or taxi.
- Lunch at To Balcony tou Aki or Saline Paros — several fresh seafood spots dot along the edge of the water, including stuffed roasted squid at Balcony. Also an easier spot to catch a taxi than the beach. If the schedule gods align, skip lunch for a drive back to the Naoussa side of the island to Ambelas for an unforgettable afternoon cooking class with the magnetic Stella.
- Take a culinary journey by collecting herbs, or take a cooking class, at Margarita studios — We did this cooking class with Stella years ago and came back again because she’s that good. Learn a full-course of local favorites in this family run B&B, kitchen and garden. A three-four hour cooking class is about 85 euro with tons of drinks, bites and stories as an amuse-bouche before the shared meal you lovingly created. If you’re so lucky, you can alternatively try their 4-hour herbs, cheese and wine trail to visit local villages wineries, cheesemakers and collect hillside herbs like true Parians. It runs from 10am-2pm and is a great option if you don’t have a car and want to explore small villages like Drios and Lefkes with a local guide. Alas the guide was on maternity leave when I went, so I guess I have to go back! Pre-booking required for both, and Margarita’s is reachable by taxi or car.
Day Four: See Naxos
Is it cheating if it’s not technically a day on Paros?…
- If you’re staying in Paros it’s truly a great location to take advantage of for day trips.
- Only a short 30–45 min ferry from Paros is Naxos, famed for its local/agricultural products (many of Paros’ cheese comes from here). There is a gorgeous port that you can stay in without a car, where you can walk to the Temple of Apollo (Portara) for stunning views of the city through the stone door, especially in the sunrise or set (though expect crowds then). It’s a delight to stroll around Naxos’ city streets, and a short walk to Agios Georgios beach. If you have a car and more time, head up the mountain to take in more local sites.
- If you’re island hopping, this is a great time to visit neighboring Santorini (hour and twenty ferry) or Mykonos (35 min ferry). But be warned, in high season these two are especially touristed and frenetic compared to Paros. You can also check out neighboring Antiparos for a more chill, of the beaten-path experience.
- If you want to stay on Paros today, head to the ‘windy’ side of the island for kite surfing and watersports at Tripiti, Golden Beach or Paralia.
Day Five: Deeper into the Island
The lovely to see, but Don’t-Fret-If-You-Miss-It interior
- Marble quarry — If you have time, take the opportunity to dig deeper into the island. On your way to the mountain town of Lefkes, stop by the marble quarry of Marathi for a quick look around at the ancient site where famed translucent and luminous marble was excavated and transported to sculptors across the ancient world. Not into history, self-directed walking and looking at ruins or doors and walls? Skip this…Best to reach by car, but there are some bus route options.
- Continue on to Lefkes for a slower pace — There’s a lot of local love for this quiet mountain town, which feels blissfully remote, albeit a hair past its heyday with some general dilapidation and neglect. This may be controversial but while there are endless charming streets for photos and admiration, I did find ourselves wandering without much to see, though that could be a folly of the low-season (last week of April/early May). Also try to avoid visiting at the end of the day when locals turn in. There is a quaint taverna in the square with a gorgeous view of the church. On the outskirts of town, you can tread along the 1,000 AD Byzantine road (photo above) for a distance or all the way to Prodromos, but bring comfy shoes to do that and prepare for a 45min hike. The town is about 40 min from Parikia (10min from the quarry) or 20min from Naousa, or by bus, take one of seven daily departures from the №1 bus at the Port.
- Butterfly sanctuary — it was not our season when we went, alas, but if it is for you (June-Sept), you may want to visit the island’s butterfly reserve. Tickets are only 3euro.
PRO TIP: Take a note when there are local festivals and religious holidays to add to your itinerary…as well as local strikes or protests to avoid. We traveled on May 1st (May Day / Labor Day) and were able to get a ferry out a day earlier than planned to avoid the annual strike and total shut down of transportation, which would have been a headache trying to get from Paros to our flight in Athens. It was also lovely to see families collecting flowers along the sea cliffs and hillsides for their May Day wreaths. Silver lining.
Have your own favorite tips to add for a great Paros trip? New things to see, corrections or closures? Amazing places I should see next time? Add them below!
